Diamond Guide

 

The classic! Diamonds are the most popular gemstone choice for fine and engagement and wedding jewellery, thanks to their unmatched brilliance, durability and variety.

Traditionally, the beauty and value of a diamond is assessed using the 4Cs: Cut, Clarity, Carat, and Colour.

Cut

The cut of a diamond affects its sparkle and brilliance. It is graded on a scale from Excellent to Poor, with an Excellent cut reflecting the maximum amount of light. Cut also covers the shape of the diamond, which we’ll cover in more detail below.

Clarity

Clarity is judged on a scale from FL (Flawless) to I3 (Included). Most inclusions (natural imperfections) are microscopic and won’t affect the stone's beauty to the naked eye. An SI2 (Slightly Included) or above should appear clear. Imperfections can even be beautiful - ‘salt and pepper’ diamonds are simply heavily included stones.

Carat

Carat refers to the diamond's weight rather than its size, as the cut of a diamond affects its spread. A well-cut 1.00ct round diamond will be around 6.5mm diameter, for instance, but may differ if the cut is deeper or shallower.

Colour

White diamonds are graded on an alphabetical scale. D, E, and F grade diamonds are considered colourless, while grades below may show graduating tints of yellow or brown.

For all diamonds over 0.50ct we provide independent certification detailing its individual characteristics.

But we don’t think the 4Cs tell the whole story. Thanks to these characteristics, every individual diamond is slightly different. What might be the ‘best’ quality diamond might not be the perfect one for you. It’s a highly personal choice.

Shape & Cut

Modern diamond cuts have two main types - brilliant cuts and step cuts.

Brilliant Cuts

Brilliant cut diamonds are designed to maximise sparkle and brilliance, with a large number of facets arranged to reflect the most light. The most popular brilliant cut is the Round Brilliant - the modern classic choice for engagement rings.

Other brilliant cut shapes include:

Princess: Square with sharp corners.
Cushion: A square or rectangular shape with rounded corners.
Oval: An elongated, elegant alternative to round.
Pear: A teardrop shape, combining the brilliance of a round cut with a pointed tip.
Marquise: A long boat-like shape with pointed ends.

Step Cuts

Step cuts emphasise the clarity and transparency of a diamond rather than its sparkle. The facets are arranged in parallel lines, often described as being mirror or window-like. The most popular step cut is the Emerald Cut, with its Art Deco-esque rectangular shape and cut corners. Other step cut shapes include:

Asscher

Similar to the Emerald Cut but square-shaped, popular in vintage-style designs as an alternative to a princess.

Baguette

A slim, rectangular shape often used as side stones for a geometric or Art Deco look.

And then there are antique diamonds, a category very close to our hearts!

Antique Diamonds

Found in or repurposed from antique jewellery, these diamonds have a recognisable charm all of their own.

Old Mine Cut

The Mine Cut, also known as the Old Mine Cut, is softly squared in shape, similar to a modern cushion cut.

Old European Cut

With a round shape and large culet (the flat facet at the diamond's base), the Old European Cut reflects light in a softer, more diffused way than modern brilliant cuts.

Rose Cut

The Rose Cut dates back to the sixteenth century. It has a flat bottom with a domed top of triangular facets, giving a very subtle sparkle.

Antique Cushion Cut

The Antique Cushion Cut, sometimes referred to as the pillow cut, is a precursor to the modern cushion cut. It has larger facets and a slightly chunkier appearance, giving it a softer, romantic feel.

Provenance

All our diamonds are either antique/vintage or sourced from sustainable and ethical sources, thanks to our close relationships with trusted partners. You can find more details on our Ethics Page.

Choosing a diamond is all about discovering what resonates with you. We hand select all our diamonds and only source from our trusted network of suppliers, so you can be assured of both their quality and provenance. 

Wherever we have specific information to share about a diamond, including if it has a certificate, is antique cut, sustainable, or modern hand selected conflict-free, you’ll find it all detailed in the product description. From there, it’s a simple case of deciding what makes your heart beat faster. Is it a beautifully cut diamond, a characterful antique stone, or a vibrant coloured gem?

As always, if you need any help deciding we’re here to step in. Please get in touch with any questions and we’ll be on hand with expert intel and advice!